Peter Do, the brand-new creative director at Helmut Lang, had a challenging set of responsibilities: Update the eminently stylish ’90s fashion label, which has been floundering for years despite its lasting impact, and combine its aesthetic with his own.
Having only previously exhibite twice on the program, present the collection as the first official runway of the Spring/Summer 2024 season at Helmut Lang, following that, he released another collection in Paris under his own label.
During a group interview backstage during the New York performance, Do t said, with a slight chuckle, “I haven’t slept in a while.
The fashion industry was abuzz when Do, 32, was appointed to the position in May as there was anticipation that the Vietnamese-born designer would reinvent the minimalist company. Lang departed the company in 2005; since then, both ownership and creative direction have changed. Michael and Nicole Colovos were replace with editors-in-residence in 2014, although there was then a significant void.
As someone who adores the original Helmut Lang, I was overjoye to hear that they were working to revive the brand since it is still so current, said designer Derek Lam, whose label Do previously worked with before going it alone. Then, I consider it wonderful that they had Peter, who is so powerful.
Do, a New York City-based Fashion Institute of Technology alumnus, worked at Celine and Lam with Phoebe Philo before starting his own collection in 2018. Since then, he has rapidly grown his fan base, which now includes Rihanna and Zendaya. His creative interpretations of men’s and women’s suits have gained popularity, such as the layered backless outfits Do released in September of last year (a spin on his earlier Fall-Winter 2019 designs), one of which K-pop musician JENO walked the runway in.